![]() In fact it wasn't missed steps at all but slight vibrations on the Y movements that caused the workpiece to move incrementally with each pass. I am incredibly embarrassed to admit that the problem of the missed steps was from a single extrusion not being bolted down properly. I've got two 500mm 20x20 pieces of extrusion running the Y direction that I use to bring the workpiece closer to the laser. The electronics are mounted to the back of the machine.Īfter getting the laser kit I spent an entire week chasing down what looked to be missed steps in the Y axis. I don't have a forstner bit that's the right size for the switch, so for the moment it just sits by the machine. I also later added a reset switch since getting up and walking to the back of the machine was a pain. It's on the side of the machine, and has come in pretty handy. I also cut a hole and mounted an e-stop for the board. ![]() It's a pretty hacked together job, but it seems to work ok. ![]() It's just a simple box with a door that I fit the 12"x12" piece of acrylic shielding into. ![]() That's definitely more than a cheap K40 Chinese laser, but I liked that it was an addition to my existing machine instead of a new one.Īfter ordering my laser kit and piece of laser shielding, I went about building an enclosure for my Shapeoko. It was $475 + shipping for the laser/driver combo. I bought my laser and driver setup from. My original plan was the 2W, and then I decided on the 2.8W, and then I ended up with the 3.8W laser since I am more interested in cutting than engraving. I recently asked for advice on what wattage laser to buy for my Shapeoko. ![]()
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